Saboten

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Saboten is a Japanese tool maker, and the range Grow Kings stocks splits into two halves: fine PT-series trimming scissors for close work, and full-size pruning shears and saws for the garden. That includes the PT-15 and PT-16 automatics, the PT-5 hands-free and PT-6 harvest scissors, AG-15 catch shears, bypass and anvil shears, the BLACKJAWS folding saw and a tungsten carbide sharpener.

Why Saboten

Trimming is repetitive work, and the difference between a good pair of scissors and a cheap pair is measured in hours and in your hands, not in the price.

Spring-return blades

The PT-15 and PT-16 are described as automatic — the blades spring back open between cuts, so you are only powering the closing stroke. Over a long trim session that halves the work your hand does. The PT-16 is angled and the PT-15 straight; both are the extra slim profile.

Straight or angled, and why it matters

Straight blades give the most control for close, deliberate work. Angled blades let you keep your wrist neutral while cutting into a canopy, which is where wrist fatigue comes from. Most people who trim regularly end up owning both.

Tools beyond scissors

The range extends to full-size pruning: bypass shears for live green wood, anvil shears for dead and woody material, the BLACKJAWS folding saw with a 210mm blade, and a pruning saw with a case.

Our Saboten range

Trimming scissors: PT-15 automatic extra slim straight, PT-16 automatic extra slim angled, PT-5 hands free, PT-6 harvest scissors, and the AG-15 catch shears which hold the cutting as it comes free.

Pruning shears: Professional bypass No.1255, Professional anvil No.1257, Classic bypass No.1200 and the Classic Trimmer Slimmer No.1210.

Saws: BLACKJAWS folding saw with a 210mm blade, and a pruning saw supplied with a case.

Maintenance: the Saboten tungsten carbide sharpener.

Choosing and maintaining trimming scissors

Match the blade to the job. Fine trimming wants a slim straight blade. Working into a dense canopy wants an angled one. Harvesting whole branches wants the heavier PT-6 or a pair of shears.
Consider the spring return if you trim for hours. Non-sprung scissors make your hand do both strokes. The PT-15 and PT-16 do the opening for you.
Clean resin off as you go, not at the end. Dried resin is far harder to remove and it binds the pivot. Wipe blades down during the session.
Sharpen little and often. A carbide sharpener takes seconds and keeps a working edge. Waiting until scissors are blunt means removing much more steel to recover the edge.
Use bypass on live wood, anvil on dead. Bypass blades slice past each other and leave a clean cut on green growth. Anvil blades crush against a flat plate — fine on dead wood, damaging on live stems.

Browse the full Trimming Scissors & Pruners range, or Trimming Machines if the volume has outgrown hand trimming.

Saboten FAQ's

The blades are spring loaded, so they return to open on their own after each cut. You only supply the closing force. Over a session with thousands of cuts that is a meaningful reduction in hand fatigue. The PT-15 has straight blades and the PT-16 angled; both are the extra slim profile for close work.

Straight blades give the most control for precise, close trimming and are the usual first pair. Angled blades let you cut into a canopy while keeping your wrist straight, which reduces strain on longer sessions. If you trim regularly, most people end up with both and switch depending on the plant and how their hand feels.

Bypass blades pass each other like scissors and leave a clean cut, which is what living stems need to heal. Anvil blades close onto a flat plate and crush as they cut, which is fine for dead or woody material but damages green growth. Saboten stocks both: the No.1255 bypass and the No.1257 anvil.

Wipe them during the session rather than after it. Dried resin binds the pivot and dulls the perceived edge even when the blade is still sharp. Isopropyl alcohol on a cloth handles fresh resin easily. Take the pivot apart occasionally to clean behind it, and re-oil before reassembling.

If you trim regularly, yes. A few passes takes seconds and keeps a working edge, which is far better than letting scissors go blunt and then removing a lot of steel to recover them. Light, frequent sharpening extends the working life of a pair of scissors considerably compared with occasional heavy sharpening.

Why Saboten

Spring-return blades

Straight or angled, and why it matters

Tools beyond scissors

Our Saboten range

Choosing and maintaining trimming scissors

Saboten FAQ's

What makes the PT-15 and PT-16 "automatic"?

Should I buy straight or angled trimming scissors?

What is the difference between bypass and anvil pruning shears?

How do I keep resin off the blades?

Do I need the carbide sharpener?