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Hydroponic Light Timers, Meters & Controllers FAQ's
Most growers run 18 hours on and 6 off during vegetative growth, then switch to 12 and 12 to trigger flowering. The dark period matters more than the light one — it needs to be genuinely uninterrupted, so use a timer rather than doing it manually, and check your timer holds its program through a power cut.
Not to grow, but it answers a question nothing else can: how much light is actually reaching your canopy. Manufacturer coverage figures are measured in ideal conditions, not in your tent at your hanging height. A meter is most useful when you are setting up a new space, comparing two fixtures, or trying to work out why one corner underperforms.
A timer switches power on and off at set times — that is all. A controller adjusts the fixtures themselves: dimming several lights together, ramping output up and down at the start and end of a cycle, or responding to temperature. Many growers use both, with the timer handling the schedule and the controller handling intensity.
Not safely. Standard plug-in timers are rated for a single fixture, and exceeding that rating is a fire risk rather than just a reliability problem. For multiple lights use a heavy-duty timer board or a contactor box, where the timer switches a relay and the relay carries the load. Check the amperage rating against your total draw.











