Grow Tent Fans

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Showing 97 - 101 of 101 products
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Cloudray S4, Grow Tent Clip Fan,4inch w 10 Speeds and Dynamic Wind - Quick Bloom LightsCloudray S4, Grow Tent Clip Fan,4inch w 10 Speeds and Dynamic Wind - Quick Bloom Lights
Cloudray S4, Grow Tent Clip Fan,4 inch, 10 Speeds and Dynamic Wind
Sale price$114.95 Regular price$129.95
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AC Infinity Multifan S1 Quiet USB Cooling Fan - 80mmAC Infinity Multifan S1 Quiet USB Cooling Fan - 80mm
AC Infinity Multifan S1 Quiet USB Cooling Fan - 80mm
Sale price$39.95 Regular price$46.95
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AC Infinity Cloudline PRO T12, Quiet Inline Duct Fan with Controller 69 PRO 300mmAC Infinity Cloudline PRO T12, Quiet Inline Duct Fan with Controller 69 PRO 300mm
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AC Infinity Cloudline PRO T10 Quiet Inline Duct Fan with Controller 69 Pro - 250mmAC Infinity Cloudline PRO T10 Quiet Inline Duct Fan with Controller 69 Pro - 250mm
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Blauberg Turbo 250 - 2 Speed Inline Mixed Flow 375H - 322L L/S
Blauberg Turbo 250 - 2 Speed Inline Mixed Flow 375H - 322L L/S
Sale price$449.95 Regular price$682.50

Extraction or circulation?

A grow space needs two kinds of fan, and they are not interchangeable. An inline fan lives in the ducting and moves air through the tent — in via a passive intake, out through a carbon filter. That one path holds temperature, stops humidity climbing, brings in CO2 and strips odour. A circulation fan only stirs the air already inside, so leaves flutter, stems thicken and no still, humid pocket sits where mould starts. Clip-on fans do that at tent scale; wall and floor fans do it for a whole room.

Sizing an inline fan

Start with the flange: match it to the carbon filter. The sizes here are 100mm, 150mm, 200mm, 250mm and 300/315mm, and the fan and filter have to share one diameter. Then weigh the airflow rating against the tent's volume. A useful rule is a full air change every one to three minutes, with extra capacity if you are running a filter, long or bent ducting, or a hot light. Friction in the ducting and the filter both take airflow off the rating, so a fan that can loaf at half speed stays quieter and lasts longer than one pinned wide open.

Silenced and EC fans

Noise is the regret growers mention most in this category. A silenced fan wraps acoustic insulation around the motor housing, which is a real change in a house or against a shared wall. EC motors help as well — they use less power at part load and stay quieter at low speeds than the older AC type. If the tent sits near a bedroom or a neighbour, the extra outlay is usually worth it.

Controllers

Most fans on this page ship with some kind of speed control, and the better ones adjust themselves. A temperature-and-humidity controller lifts the fan when the tent warms or dampens, then eases it back as conditions settle. That saves power and noise, and it holds the room far more steadily than a fixed speed.

The rest of the airflow chain

The fan is only one piece. Pair it with a carbon filter of the same flange size, ducting to join them, and rope ratchets to hang the assembly. If you would rather skip sizing each part, the fan and filter combos arrive already matched.

Grow Tent Fans FAQ's

Pair the fan flange to the carbon filter first — 100mm, 150mm and 200mm cover most home tents. Then check airflow against tent volume: aim to swap the full air volume every one to three minutes, and leave spare capacity because a carbon filter and long ducting both cut real-world airflow. A 150mm fan is the usual fit for a 1.2 x 1.2m tent.

They are not the same tool. An inline fan sits in the ducting and swaps air between the tent and outside, which is how you control heat, humidity and odour. A clip-on fan only moves air already inside the tent, which thickens stems and stops still, humid pockets where mould forms. Most grows run one of each.

Yes, if the tent is in or near living space. Acoustic insulation around the housing cuts noise compared with a bare fan of the same airflow. EC-motor fans go further still, because they stay quieter at part load. Fan noise is the thing growers most often wish they had spent more on.

Strongly recommended. A fan pinned wide open is loud, hard on the motor and usually more airflow than you need. A basic controller lets you turn it down; a temperature-and-humidity controller changes speed as conditions shift, which holds the room steadier and keeps the fan quieter for most of the day.

Either works, but a pull setup is the usual one: the filter hangs inside the tent at the top, the fan sits after it, and air is drawn through the filter then pushed out the ducting. That puts the tent under slight negative pressure, so odour leaves only through the filter instead of leaking at gaps and zips.

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