Trimming Scissors & Pruners FAQ's
Curved blades follow the round shape of a bud, which is why most growers use them to shape flower — Hydro Bitz's curved blade is the usual pattern. Straight blades give a more predictable line when you strip leaf or do detail work. Neither choice is wrong: trim crews typically keep both on the tray and switch by job.
Bypass shears work like scissors — two blades passing each other — and leave a clean slice on green, living stems, so they are the pick for pruning and defoliation during the grow. Anvil shears bring one blade down onto a flat plate; they crush soft tissue but drive through dry or dead wood. Saboten makes both: the No.1255 bypass and the No.1257 anvil.
Mid-session, wipe the blades with isopropyl alcohol on a cloth. At the end of the day, soak them properly, dry them, then put a drop of oil on the pivot. The quicker habit is to run two pairs — one cutting while the other sits in alcohol — which is why most growers buy scissors as a pair.
They are spring-loaded scissors that open themselves after each cut, so your hand only has to squeeze. Over a long trim that roughly halves the work your fingers do and holds cramp off. Saboten's Pt-5 hands-free scissors and the extra-slim automatic Pt-15 and Pt-16 are made for those long harvest days.
Two per trimmer at the least — resin builds up quickly, and swapping to a clean pair while the sticky one soaks keeps you cutting instead of cleaning. Larger harvests also justify splitting tools by job: fine-tipped snips for bud work and a proper pruning shear for stems, so you never force small blades through thick cuts.