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Hydroponic Lights FAQ's
LED is more efficient and cooler-running, so the bill is lower and the exhaust works less — you pay more to buy it. HPS is cheaper on the shelf, and that red-heavy spectrum suits flower, at the cost of heat and power. For a new room in an Australian summer, LED is usually the easier path; HPS still makes sense on a tight budget or in a cold space.
Size from canopy area, not plant count. A common starting point is 30–50W of modern LED per square foot, or 400–600W of HID for a 1.2 x 1.2m tent. Read the fixture's rated coverage as well as its wattage — a light built for a smaller footprint will leave dark corners no matter how many watts it draws.
CMH, also sold as CDM, uses a ceramic arc tube and gives a fuller, more balanced spectrum than HPS, UV included. Growers often prefer it for veg and for light quality. HPS is stronger in the red and generally puts out more raw light per watt in flower, so a lot of rooms run CMH for veg and HPS for bloom.
Only HID lamps need one. HPS, MH and CMH each take a ballast matched to their wattage and lamp type. LED fixtures already have the driver inside, so they plug straight into a timer. Replacing an HID lamp? Check the ballast is rated for that lamp type, not just the watts.
Intensity decides the gap, and the manufacturer's hanging chart is the one to follow. LEDs generally hang closer than HID of the same output because they throw less heat, and you raise everything as plants move into flower. If the nearest leaves bleach or curl upward, the fixture is too close.




